Turkey afterglow

After weeks of rather unsettled weather, Nature finally smiled upon the Adirondacks this weekend. In town, a few pockets of activity - generally related to Santa and all that he brings - do not diminish the deep quiet that has fallen over the lakes. At this time of year, few birds and even fewer boats traverse the water, so that the stillness of morning lasts longer now than at any other time of year. Those perfect watery reflections, sought after so often by photographers, become less fleeting, undisturbed for several hours after sunrise. The ground, too, has become hushed, able only to produce a mere rustle of leaves. It is easier to navigate the forest this time of year. Most plants have died back, leaving only the most nascent of evergreen saplings, and so one can walk freely without fear of trampling delicate lady ferns, hostas or blueberry plants.


This morning, the quiet was briefly interrupted by the unmistakeable call of a loon, which startled me. Generally, loons have vacated the area by now, seeking their own version of a beachfront condo. But this one, for reasons unknown to me, had remained. Perhaps it was just me, but his call seemed more drawn out and urgent during these most quiet days of the year. Not having to busy himself with worries of predators and boat propellers, he seemed all the more aware of his predicament. It's as if, having missed his flight with all of the other loons, he found himself unable to book another, his frequent flier miles no longer valid and his three-ounce bottles and plastic bag not up to the standards of the loon TSA. I suspect that he knows all this, that he is resigned to his fate. But at least he's not going quietly.

Thanksgiving Turkey Recipe

I'm not making Thanksgiving dinner this year, which is pretty rare for me. Over the years, I've adjusted and perfected my turkey recipe, and I thought I'd share it. This isn't a recipe in the Julia Child sense. No measurements, or anything like that. I like to cook by feel.

The Marinade.
Pulverize a small package of dried porcini mushrooms in a coffee grinder (one that you've never used for coffee ... I keep two, one for coffee and another for herbs and dried mushrooms). Combine the mushrooms with chopped shallots, a lot of fresh rosemary (preferably organic), a few cloves of garlic and a few tablespoons of truffle oil (yes, truffle oil). Process all of these ingredients in a small food processor until it becomes a smooth paste, somewhat like the consistency of stone ground mustard. Set aside.

The Night before Thanksgiving.
Take the turkey out of the package and remove the organs in the cavity (you will use them later, so save them). Try to get a good free range turkey; they really are tastier. Wash the turkey thoroughly in cold water and pat dry. Carefully loosen the skin of the breast and begin working small amounts of the marinade underneath as far as you can, being careful not to break the skin. Using a small, sharp knife, make a series of small incisions inside the cavity of the turkey and then spread the marinade throughout. If you have any marinade left, spread it liberally around the entire surface of the turkey. At this point, you can truss the turkey if you like.

The Sauce.
About an hour before placing the turkey in the oven, saute chopped onions, carrots and celery in a large saucepan over medium heat. Once the vegetables are glistening, turn up the heat and add some good quality chicken stock and a large sprig of fresh rosemary. At this point, add all of the turkey organs you set aside the night before. Once the stock comes to a boil, add a full bottle of red wine (a nice Bordeaux with oak overtones will work well, or even a Beaujolais if you want a brighter, fruitier flavor). Simmer the sauce for about 30 minutes or until reduced by about a third. At this point, you can take the sauce off the heat and discard the organs.

Roasting the Turkey.
Preheat the oven while you're making the sauce above. Place the turkey in a good quality roasting pan and arrange large pieces of autumn vegetables, lightly tossed in olive oil, all around. Generally, it's a good idea to follow the roasting instructions included with your turkey. I tend to roast mine at 400 degrees until a meat thermometer registers the proper temperature when inserted between the wing and main body of the turkey. After about an hour, or when the turkey starts to turn a golden brown, add all of the sauce to the roasting pan. At this stage, I baste the turkey every 30 minutes, using a baster with a metal syringe tip. If you think the turkey is browning too much, cover it with a sheet or two of aluminum foil. If you find that the sauce is reducing too much, don't be afraid to add another bottle of wine.

Finishing the Job.
Once the turkey is done, remove it from the oven and place it on a large carving platter. It's important to let the turkey rest for at least 30 minutes before serving. Remove the vegetables and place in a serving dish. Place the roasting pan over a couple of burners on the stove top and set to medium-high heat. Deglaze the pan and reduce the sauce until it achieves the thickness of a thin gravy. If you wish, you can strain the sauce before serving it alongside the turkey.

That's it. You should end up with a luxurious turkey featuring deep, complex and subtle flavors. Best of all, it will even taste better the next day. For those of you brave enough to cook the Friday after Thanksgiving, there's a delicious soup you can make from the leftovers. I'll post that recipe later in the week.

Presidential Proclamation: Thanksgiving 2006

As Americans gather with family and friends to celebrate Thanksgiving Day, we give thanks for the many ways that our Nation and our people have been blessed.

The Thanksgiving tradition dates back to the earliest days of our society, celebrated in decisive moments in our history and in quiet times around family tables. Nearly four centuries have passed since early settlers gave thanks for their safe arrival and pilgrims enjoyed a harvest feast to thank God for allowing them to survive a harsh winter in the New World. General George Washington observed Thanksgiving during the Revolutionary War, and in his first proclamation after becoming President, he declared November 26, 1789, a national day of "thanksgiving and prayer." During the Civil War, President Abraham Lincoln revived the tradition of proclaiming a day of thanksgiving, reminding a divided Nation of its founding ideals.

At this time of great promise for America, we are grateful for the freedoms guaranteed by our Constitution and defended by our Armed Forces throughout the generations. Today, many of these courageous men and women are securing our peace in places far from home, and we pay tribute to them and to their families for their service, sacrifice, and strength. We also honor the families of the fallen and lift them up in our prayers.

Our citizens are privileged to live in the world's freest country, where the hope of the American dream is within the reach of every person. Americans share a desire to answer the universal call to serve something greater than ourselves, and we see this spirit every day in the millions of volunteers throughout our country who bring hope and healing to those in need. On this Thanksgiving Day, and throughout the year, let us show our gratitude for the blessings of freedom, family, and faith, and may God continue to bless America.

NOW, THEREFORE, I, GEORGE W. BUSH, President of the United States of America, by virtue of the authority vested in me by the Constitution and laws of the United States, do hereby proclaim Thursday, November 23, 2006, as a National Day of Thanksgiving. I encourage all Americans to gather together in their homes and places of worship with family, friends, and loved ones to reinforce the ties that bind us and give thanks for the freedoms and many blessings we enjoy.

IN WITNESS WHEREOF, I have hereunto set my hand this sixteenth day of November, in the year of our Lord two thousand six, and of the Independence of the United States of America the two hundred and thirty-first.

GEORGE W. BUSH

Thanksgiving!

A recipe for Thanksgiving turkey will be posted soon, for all of you getting reading for Thanksgiving celebrations next week. Doesn't this family look happy? God bless 'em.

The Thanksgiving Table, Adirondack Style

We had always wanted to have Thanksgiving in the Adirondacks. Now that we have a year-round home, we celebrated the first Penwood Thanksgiving at this table. The table is by Stickley, as are the chairs. The chairs are Harvey Ellis by Stickley, each with inlay in the back of the chair. The snow was beginning to build up outside and the fire was burning inside. The table was set for the culinary show. We love round dining tables like this one because nobody is at the head - and it promotes great conversations.